Classy Cloche Hat

To start, click the link above to open a PDF file of the hat patterns. The hat patterns are split into three sections, which will print on three pieces of paper - one piece for the cap section of the hat and two pieces for the brim.

Choose the size hat you would like to make and cut the brim pattern sections following the labeled sizes on the patterns. Tape the two sections of the brim pattern together according to the directions on the pattern pieces.

Cut out the cap section pattern piece according to size.

Now we will prepare the fabric for the outer shell of the hat. Cut a piece of wool felt a bit larger than the cap pattern piece. Pin the pattern piece to the fabric and using an air-erase pen or other marking tool, trace the pattern shape.

Remove the pattern and create a paper template of the design by printing it at full size using embroidery software. If you don't have embroidery software, you can cut a piece of paper the shape and dimensions of the design to help with placement and centering. Place the template inside the shape with the bottom edge of the design about 1 1/2 inches from the bottom edge of the fabric. Then, center the design from side to side by measuring and dividing by two. Poke a hole in the center of the template and mark the fabric. Also, mark the horizontal and vertical axis points.

Remove the template and draw lines to connect the marks - these marks will be used for hooping.

Now, spray a piece of medium-weight cutaway stabilizer with temporary adhesive and smooth the fabric on top. Hoop the fabric and stabilizer together by aligning the marks on the hoop with the lines on the fabric. Attach the hoop to the machine and load the design. Move the hoop so that the needle is directly over the center point on the fabric. Embroider the design. 

When the design has finished, cut out the shape. We left the stabilizer on the back of the fabric to give it a bit more support and shape.

Repeat the pattern tracing, design template marking, hooping, and embroidering process for one more panel. We are positioning the embroidered panels on each side of the hat. Also, trace and cut out two more pieces using the cap pattern piece - these pieces are for the front and back of the hat. Lay one of the embroidered panels right side up. Align one of the blank panels on top of the embroidered panel, right sides together, and pin in place along the right side only. Sew a 1/2 inch seam along the right side only, starting at the top peak and ending at the bottom right corner.

Lay the assembled panels flat with the right sides facing up. Align the remaining embroidered panel on top of the blank panel. Pin along the right side and sew a 1/2 inch seam along the right side only.

Add the remaining blank panel on top of the previous panel with the right sides together. Pin in place along the right side and sew a 1/2 inch seam along the right side only.

Bring the raw edges of the ends of the panels together, right sides facing, pin in place, and sew a 1/2 inch seam along the pinned edge only. Then, trim the seam allowances leaving about 1/8 inch of fabric - be careful to not cut the seams.

Now it's time to prepare the fabric for the brim. Lay the brim pattern piece on the fabric and trace the shape. Then, flip the pattern piece over and align the square end with the traced shape and trace the shape again - this creates the full brim fabric piece. Trace and cut two pieces of the felt and one piece of the fusible interfacing. Add the interfacing to one of the fabric pieces by following the manufacturer's instructions.

Align the brim fabric pieces together, right sides together (interfacing faces out) and pin in place. Sew a 1/2 inch seam along the outer curved edge only - leave the entire inner curve open.

Turn the brim right side out and press the seams. Top stitch a 1/4 inch seam along the outer curved edge.

Now we will prepare the inner lining. Trace and cut four pieces of fleece using the cap section pattern piece. Assemble the inner lining just as you did the outer shell. Trim the seam allowances as you did before also.

Now let's assemble the hat. Mark the center of the inner curve of the brim by measuring and dividing by two. Mark the center of the outer edge of one of the blank panels (this will become the front panel). Align the center points of the brim and the outer shell together with the brim laying flat against the outer shell. Pin in place around the entire outer edge of the outer shell. Then, sew a 1/4 inch seam around the entire outer edge of the outer shell.

With the inner lining turned wrong side out, insert the brim/cap section inside the inner lining. Align the edges of the inner lining with the edges of the outer shell/brim section. Pin in place and sew a 1/2 inch seam along the edge leaving about 3 inches open for turning.

Turn the hat right side out. Turn the inner lining fabric of the opening in 1/2 inch and hand sew the opening closed.

To create the bow, cut a piece of felt 6 1/2 inches wide by 5 inches high. Round off the corners by trimming the fabric.

Gather the top and bottom of the fabric in the center and tie in place with decorative cord.

Hand sew the bow in place along the inner brim seam, under the embroidered design. You can also add embellishments like beads. We hot glued a string of beads to the hat by tucking the ends under the bow and then gluing the bow on top of the ends of the beads.

Your hat is now complete! Show off your sophisticated style all around town.