Eyeglasses Case (In-the-Hoop)

In-the-hoop eyeglasses case designs have multiple files. Two are full embroidery files. The others are dieline files marked with the letters DL.

Dielines are used to cut the fabric to the correct shape and size. Open and print each dieline file using an embroidery software. If you do not have an embroidery software, take a look at our helpful video on using dielines.

We also recommend Wilcom's Hatch software which comes in different levels depending on what you'd like to use the software for. Hatch Organizer works well to view your designs, print dielines and templates, change design colors, and create basic design layouts. (This is an affiliate link. We may earn commission on purchases made with this link.)

First, cut a piece of high loft batting larger than the front "a" and "b" dielines.

Spray one side of a piece of the batting with temporary adhesive, and smooth it on top of a piece of cutaway stabilizer that is slightly larger than it.

Then cut a piece of the outer fabric that is the same size as batting, spray the wrong side of the fabric with temporary adhesive, and smooth it into place on top of the batting.

Spray the back side of the printed front dielines ("a" and "b") with temporary adhesive, and smooth them onto the right side of the fabric.

Cut the front dieline shapes out of the adhered fabric, batting, and stabilizer. Then remove the paper dieline.

As high loft batting causes problems with shifting, the batting and stabilizer will need to be trimmed slightly smaller than the fabric piece.

Press the layers of fabric, batting, and stabilizer flat, and carefully cut away any of the batting and stabilizer that sticks out past the fabric at all. Do this until you can press the shape flat on the table and not see any batting or stabilizer peeking out around the fabric edge.

Then use those same front "a" and "b" dielines, and cut out a lining version of each of them.

These two pieces will just be the lining fabric, and will have no stabilizer, batting, or extra fabric on them.

For the back "b" dieline, spray the wrong side of the lining with temporary adhesive. Smooth it onto a piece of the outer fabric with wrong sides together.

Then spray and place the back "b" paper dieline on top of the outer fabric side.

Cut the back "b" dieline shape out of the adhered outer fabric and lining piece.

Once all the fabric pieces are cut to the correct shapes, it's time to embroider the design.

Hoop a piece of tear-away stabilizer. Madeira E-Zee 1.5 oz. or Floriani Tearaway Medium are good choices. Those brands are more fibrous, less like paper, and will tear more cleanly.

Attach the hoop onto the machine, and load the first embroidery file labeled with an "a" (not the dieline files).

Use a 75/11 sharp sewing needle instead of an embroidery needle.
The sharp sewing needle has a finer point, and it will make smaller perforations in the stabilizer.

Embroider the design. The first thing to embroider will be a dieline (or outline stitch). This marks the area on the stabilizer where the fabric piece will be placed.

After the dieline has sewn, remove the hoop from the machine, but do not unhoop the stabilizer.

Spray the cutaway stabilizer side of the "a" front fabric piece with temporary adhesive. Smooth the fabric piece onto the stabilizer inside of the sewn dieline, so the cutaway stabilizer is against the hooped tearaway stabilizer.

Then stretch a piece of water soluble stabilizer over the fabric piece, and tape it in place. Make sure to pull it taut, so it squishes and holds down the batting. This will prevent the embroidery foot from catching onto and pushing around the fabric piece while sewing.

Place the hoop back onto the machine, and embroider the tackdown for the front fabric piece. The tackdown will hold the fabric piece in place for the remainder of the design.

Once the front fabric piece is stitched in place, embroider all the inner details. Make sure to stop before sewing the "lining tackdown" step.

Before sewing the "lining tackdown" step, remove the hoop from the machine, and turn it over so the back side of the embroidery is facing up.

Then spray the wrong side of the lining "a" piece with temporary adhesive and smooth it into place on the back side of the embroidery.

As all the embroidery from here on out will be seen from both sides, wind a bobbin to match the thread color used in the rest of the design.

Place the bobbin into the machine, and follow the color change sheet to embroider the rest of the "a" file design. The "lining tackdown" will embroider to hold the lining piece on the back of the hoop.

Then the "finishing seam" will sew a finished border around three sides of the flap. The straight, top edge does not get a finishing seam.

Once the embroidery for the flap (file "a") is finished, carefully tear the excess stabilizer away from the outside edges of the design.

Then tear or wash away the remaining water soluble stabilizer in between the details on the front of the embroidery.

Hoop another piece of tearaway stabilizer, and load the second embroidery file (labeled with a "b") onto the machine.

Begin to embroider the design. The dieline for the front piece will sew out first.

Just like the front piece for the "a" file, spray the cutaway side of the fabric, batting, and cutaway front piece, and smooth it into place inside of the dieline.

Then make sure to stretch and tape water soluble stabilizer over the fabric piece to squish it down and hold it out of the way of the embroidery foot.

Place the hoop back on the machine, and embroider the "front piece tackdown" to adhere the fabric, batting, and cutaway piece in place.

Then embroider all of the inner details. Stop before sewing the "lining tackdown" step.

Before sewing the "lining tackdown", remove the hoop from the machine, and spray the back side of the "b" lining piece.

Flip the hoop over, and smooth the lining piece in place on the back side of the embroidery.

Then flip the hoop back over, and remove the excess stabilizer and tape from around the design.

As all the embroidery from here on out will be seen from both sides, wind a bobbin to match the thread color used in the rest of the design.

Place the hoop back on the machine, and embroider the "front piece lining tackdown" and the "top pocket finishing seam. Then embroider the "back piece dieline" which will show where to place the back piece and pocket.

Before sewing the "back piece tackdown", remove the hoop from the machine, and spray the lining side of the "b" back piece.

Flip the hoop over, and smooth the back piece in place over the lining with the lining fabrics together.

Continue to embroider the design, and stitch out the "back piece tackdown" and "finishing seam" steps. Nothing will sew along the top edge.

Before sewing the "flap tackdown" take the flap piece, and position it on top of the "b" front.

Line the top edge of the flap up with the sewn dieline, and tape it into place without taping over the top edge where it will be sewing at all. If tape goes over the top edge, it will get trapped in the embroidery.

Tape works better than spray adhesive here as it won't make the flap sticky.

Once the flap is taped in place, embroider the rest of the design. The "flap tackdown" will embroider first followed by the "top finishing seam".

After the embroider has finished, tear away the excess stabilizer from around the design.

Then remove the rest of the water soluble stabilizer from around the embroidery.

On the inside of the eyeglasses holder, there will be a thin strip of tearaway stabilizer holding the case closed. Tear this away as well.

Finally add your desired closure. Using a sew-on closure will be stronger than one with an adhesive backing, so it will last longer.

Having your glasses in the case can help with placement when adding the second half of the closure.