Splish-Splash Bathtime Wall Organizer Caddy

To begin, fold the towel lengthwise (short ends aligned) and cut it in half along the fold.

Cut the width of each half piece down to 22 inches wide (discard the small pieces).

Now we will prepare the bottom pocket portion for embroidery. Fold one of the half pieces of fabric lengthwise, leaving 2 1/2 inches of the back layer extending up past the top edge of the front layer (our towel has trim on one end -- this is the piece we are using for the bottom pocket portion).

Create paper templates of the designs by printing them at full size using embroidery software. If you don't have embroidery software, you can cut a piece of paper the shape and dimensions of the design to help with placement and centering. If you'd like a recommendation for an embroidery program that can make templates, consider Embird from www.Embird.com.

Place the center design along the bottom edge of the fabric - center it top to bottom by measuring between the trim (or edge of the towel if you don't have trim) and the bottom edge of the fold and dividing by two. Place the center of the template at that mark, then center the template side to side, by measuring in between the outer side edges of the fabric and dividing by two. Using an air erase pen (or other marking tool), poke a hole in the center of the template and mark the fabric. Also, mark the horizontal and vertical axis points.

Remove the template and draw lines to connect the marks - extend the horizontal axis line out to the outer edges of the fabric.

Next we will measure and mark the areas of the pockets. Measure and mark in 1/2 inch along both outer side edges. Measure the distance between the two points and divide by three. Ours measures 21 inches, so 21 divided by 3 equals 7 inches. Use that measurement to mark the fabric in between the outer marks (we marked two points at 7 inches and two more at 14 inches. Draw vertical lines on the bottom fold of the fabric at the outer marks and the marks you just made. The areas in between the lines are the areas to be embroidered.

Position the other two templates on the outer areas. Poke holes in the centers of the templates and align them along the horizontal axis line. Also, center the templates side to side by measuring in between the lines and dividing by two.

Mark the vertical axis points, remove the templates, and draw lines to connect the marks.

Unfold the fabric and spray a piece of medium-weight cutaway stabilizer with temporary adhesive and smooth the fabric on top. Lay one layer of water-soluble stabilizer on top and hoop all three layers together by aligning the marks on the hoop with the lines on the fabric. Attach the hoop to the machine and load the first design. Move the hoop so that the needle is directly over the center point on the fabric. Embroider the design. Repeat the hooping and embroidering process for the remaining two designs.

To prepare the fabric for the embroidered top pocket portion, fold the remaining fabric piece lengthwise so that 7 1/2 inches of the back layer extends up past the top edge of the front layer. Position the templates and mark the fabric just as you did for the bottom portion -- center the first design by measuring in between the top edge and bottom edge of the front layer.

Repeat the same hooping and embroidering process you did for the bottom portion and embroider the designs.

When all the designs have finished, trim away the excess stabilizer on the back of the embroidery and tear away the water-soluble topping. If any pieces of the water-soluble topping are left behind, simply dab them with water and they will dissolve away.

Wrap bias tape along the entire top edge of both the top and bottom portions. Pin the tape in place and sew a seam along the inner edge of the tape.

For the bottom portion, fold the fabric back in place with 2 1/2 inches of the bottom layer extending past the top edge of the front layer. Pin in place and sew a seam along the two lines dividing the pocket areas, starting at the bottom fold and ending at the top edge of the front layer. Also, sew a 1/4 inch seam along the outer raw edges of the pockets. Repeat this process for the top pocket portion -- fold the fabric with 7 1/2 inches of the bottom layer extending past the top edge of the front layer.

Fold the top edge of the bottom pocket portion over 3/4 inch to the right side and press with an iron.

Align the top pocket portion along the fold of the bottom portion overlapping them 3/4 inch, pin in place, and sew a 1/2 inch seam along the bottom edge of the fold on the top pocket portion.

Now, we will add the quilt binding to the side edges. Cut two pieces of binding a bit longer than the side edges of the caddy. Fold one end in 1/2 inch and press. Turn the caddy over so that the wrong side is facing up. Unfold the binding and align the backside of the binding (right sides facing) along the side edges of the caddy with the fold of the binding aligned with edges of the fabric (the folded end of the binding should be at the bottom edges of the caddy). Leaving the binding unfolded and lying flat, sew a seam along the inner edge of the binding.

Flip the caddy right side up, wrap the binding up and around the side edges, pin in place, and sew a seam along the inner edges of the binding.

To create a pocket for the dowel hanger, first fold the top edge of the caddy over 3/4 inch to the wrong side and press. Fold the fabric over another 2 inches to the wrong side, pin in place, and sew a 1/2 inch seam along the inner edge of the fold.

Cut a 3/8 inch wide wooden dowel 23 inches long. Insert the dowel into the top pocket and add a dowel cap at both ends. Cut a piece of cord 30 inches long and tie the cord at each end of the dowel to complete your caddy.

Hang your colorful bathtime caddy and keep everything from toys to toiletries neat and tidy!