3D Organza Applique (In-the-Hoop)

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Add bold color and dimension to your embroidery with 3D applique. This tutorial explains how to create 3D applique designs that are stitched and layered outside the hoop, so you can arranged the various pieces to your discretion. Get our best tips and tricks for stitching 3D organza applique!

Project Needs & Notes

- Small pieces of organza for petals
- Small piece of felt for flower center
- Heavy-weight water-soluble stabilizer (like Sulky Ultra Solvy)
- Temporary spray adhesive (like Gunold KK100)
- Needle and thread for some hand sewing
- Spray starch (optional)

For this tutorial, I used the Magnolia in 3D design. Find even more 3D flowers here.

You'll note that there are two versions of the 3D designs. One version can be constructed in the hoop, and those designs have the words "in the hoop" in the name. This tutorial is not for those designs. Instructions for that method are found in the tutorial here.

Designs Used

3D applique designs include several files. After downloading and unzipping, you'll find an embroidery file for each applique piece, as well as files marked with the letters "DL." Those are "dieline" files, and are used to cut the organza to the proper shape and size.

The Magnolia in 3D design has 14 files. 7 are for the petals and flower center, and 7 are dielines.

Open the DL/dieline file with your embroidery software, and print it. This is called a template.

If you don't have software, Wilcom's TrueSizer is a free program that can print templates.

Spray the back of a paper template with temporary adhesive and smooth it onto a piece of organza. Cut out the shape.

Repeat this for each dieline. When cutting fabric for the smallest piece, the flower center, use felt. That's a sturdier fabric than organza, and will work the best to hold the layers together.

After the fabric is cut to the proper shape, it's time to embroider the designs.

Hoop a piece of water-soluble stabilizer.

Wind a bobbin with the same thread that you're using in the top so that the flower looks pretty from both sides.

Attach the hoop to the machine, and embroider the largest petal design.

The color change sheet will be your guide and tell you the order that things stitch. First is an outline that traces the shape for the applique fabric.

Spray the largest fabric piece with temporary adhesive.

Place the fabric piece inside the outline. Also, trim off any loose stitches on the back of the embroidery.

Attach the hoop back to the machine, and continue embroidering the design.

A tackdown stitch will sew next. These stitches hold the fabric in place.

Continue embroidering the design. A satin stitch border finishes the piece.

Unhoop and trim the excess stabilizer away.

Repeat the steps to stitch each piece.

Remove the stabilizer according to the packaging instructions. For Sulky Ultra Solvy, soak the organza in water, hot from the tap, for 15-20 minutes.

Blot the pieces with paper towels to remove the excess moisture and allow them to air dry.

After the pieces are dry, arrange them on top of one another. The largest piece will be at the bottom. Rotate each piece to allow the petals to overlap on the edges, creating a lovely three-dimensional effect.

Stitch the layers together by hand. Sew a few stitches around the inner edge of the satin stitch of the smallest center piece. You can also add a button to hold the layers in place.