3D Christmas Train Engine (In-the-Hoop) | Machine Embroidery Designs | Embroidery Library - Print

3D Christmas Train Engine (In-the-Hoop)

All aboard the Christmas train! Craft a holiday classic with this gorgeous machine embroidery design. Stitch each embroidered fabric piece separately, then fold and glue to build your own colorful train engine. Step-by-step instructions below will show you how!


Project Needs & Notes:

- 1/2 yard quilters cotton, flannel, or similar fabric (for main color)
- 1/2 yard quilters cotton, flannel, or similar fabric (for accent color)
- 1/4 yard quilters cotton, flannel, or similar fabric (for roof)
- Temporary spray adhesive (such as Gunold KK100)
- Tear-away stabilizer
- Medium weight cutaway stabilizer
- Embroidery thread
- Scissors
- Craft knife
- Cutting mat
- Ruler
- Hot glue gun and glue sticks
- Hand sewing needle (if preferred for assembly)
- Pipe cleaner
- Polyester fiberfill
- Wire cutter
- Tweezers
- Narrow stick for gluing (can be a thin wooden stick of paintbrush handle)

Designs featured in this tutorial include:
X15004, Christmas Train Engine in 3D (In-the-Hoop)

Finished size:
Large size (X15004): 9 1/2" long x 3 7/8" wide x 7 1/4" tall
Small size (X15005): 7" long x 2 7/8" wide x 5 3/4" tall

Products Used

  • Christmas Train Engine in 3D (In-the-Hoop) (Sku: EMP70194-1)

Steps To Complete

This design has been specially digitized for tear-away stabilizer. After the stabilizer is removed, beautiful fabric and embroidery remain.

When you download the train engine design, you will find multiple files. Some are the embroidery files, and the others are dieline files marked with the letters "DL". Dielines are used to cut the fabric to the correct shape and size.

Open and print each dieline file using an embroidery software. If you do not have an embroidery software, Wilcom TrueSizer is a free program to use.

First spray one side of a piece of cutaway stabilizer with temporary adhesive. Smooth the stabilizer onto the wrong side of the fabric piece.

Then spray the back side of the printed dieline pieces with temporary adhesive, and smooth them onto the right side of the fabric. For this design, every fabric piece (the front, back, and accent panels) for every file needs to have cutaway stabilizer on them.

Cut the dieline shapes out of the adhered fabric and cutaway stabilizer. Some of the fabric pieces have openings that need to be cut with a craft knife. Cut out each of the openings using a craft knife and cutting mat. Then remove the paper dielines.

Hoop a piece of tear-away stabilizer firmly. Make sure it is nice and tight with no wrinkles.

Attach the hoop onto the machine, and load the first embroidery file (not the dieline files).

Use a 75/11 sharp sewing needle instead of an embroidery needle. The sharp sewing needle has a finer point, and it will make smaller perforations in the stabilizer.

Embroider the design. The first thing to embroider will be the "front piece dieline" (or outline stitch). This marks the area on the stabilizer where the fabric piece will be placed.

After the dieline has sewn, remove the hoop from the machine, but do not unhoop the stabilizer.

Spray the stabilizer side of the front fabric piece with temporary adhesive.

Smooth the fabric piece onto the stabilizer inside of the sewn dieline.

Place the hoop back onto the machine, and embroider the tackdown for the front fabric piece. The tackdown will hold the fabric piece in place for the remainder of the design.

Some pieces have a panel of fabric in an accent color as well.

For these fabric pieces, embroider the "panel dieline" on top of the first fabric piece.

Spray the stabilizer side of the panel fabric piece, and smooth it in place inside the sewn dieline.

Then embroider the "panel tackdown" to adhere the fabric piece to the stabilizer.

After all the fabric pieces are in place, all of the inner details of the embroidery will sew out.

Stop before sewing the "back piece tackdown."

Before sewing the "back piece tackdown" step, remove the hoop from the machine, and turn it over so the back side of the embroidery is facing up.

Spray the stabilizer of the back fabric piece with temporary adhesive, and smooth it into place on the back side of the embroidery.

Then place the hoop back onto the machine, and embroider the "back piece tackdown."

This will adhere the back piece in place on the back side of the hooped stabilizer.

For this design, you only need to match bobbins if desired. The bobbin sides of the pieces will not be easily visible once the train engine is assembled.

Follow the color change sheet to embroider the remaining tabs and finishing borders.

After embroidering, tear away the excess stabilizer. Also make sure to remove the stabilizer from all the window openings.

Many of the pieces also have small openings between the fabric pieces and the embroidered tabs.

Use a small pair of scissors or tweezers to remove the small pieces of stabilizer from these small areas.

Repeat these steps to embroider all 13 the pieces of the train engine (files "a"-"m").

Make sure to place cutaway stabilizer on the back of every fabric piece, as it will make the train engine pieces sturdy enough to hold themselves up when completed.

Some pieces have fabric folds where the fabric piece continues over the different sides of one piece.

This leaves a small channel of fabric between two sewn satin lines where the pieces will be folded. The headlight ("c") has four folds, the bottom base piece ("k") has one fold, and the front pilot ("m") has two folds.

In this tutorial, the train engine is designed to use glue and embroidered glue tabs for assembly. If preferred, you can also hand sew all the pieces together in the same order as listed below. Simply use thread matching the embroidery.

To make gluing the train engine together as easy as possible, glue tabs have been added to the file, and embroider out with the rest of the design.

These tabs are either long rectangles or small squares depending on if the edge is meant to be curved or straight in the end.

To use these tabs, simply place a generous amount of glue on the tab. For best results, glue long tabs in small sections, so the glue goes not dry faster than you can line up the pieces. Also glue small tabs one at a time, so the glue does not dry out too fast.

Then place the glue tab, with glue on it, against the wrong side of the adjacent edge or fabric piece where it will not be seen.

To begin assembly, first take the main boiler piece (file "a"). Place glue on the one long tab.