When you download the angel design, you will find multiple files.

Some are the embroidery files, and the others are dieline files marked with the letters "DL".
Dielines are used to cut the fabric to the correct shape and size.

Open and print each dieline file using embroidery software. If you do not have embroidery software, Wilcom TrueSizer is a free program to use.

For this design the front and back fabric pieces for every file will have cutaway stabilizer on them.

First spray one side of a piece of cutaway stabilizer with temporary adhesive. Smooth the stabilizer onto the wrong side of the fabric piece.

Then spray the back side of the printed dieline pieces with temporary adhesive, and smooth it onto the right side of the fabric.

Cut the dieline shapes out of the adhered fabric and cutaway stabilizer. Then remove the paper dieline.

The torso piece (file "b") has a small opening in the center. Use a craft knife and cutting mat to cut this out of the front and back fabric pieces before embroidering the design.

Hoop a piece of tear-away stabilizer firmly. Make sure it is nice and tight with no wrinkles.

Attach the hoop onto the machine, and load one of the first embroidery files (files "a" - "e" are sewn the same way).

Use a 75/11 sharp sewing needle instead of an embroidery needle. The sharp sewing needle has a finer point, and it will make smaller perforations in the stabilizer.

Embroider the design. The first thing to embroider will be the "dieline" (or outline stitch). This marks the area on the stabilizer where the front fabric piece will be placed.

After the dieline has sewn, remove the hoop from the machine, but do not unhoop the stabilizer.

Spray the stabilizer side of the front fabric piece with temporary adhesive. Smooth the fabric piece onto the hooped stabilizer inside of the sewn dieline.

Then place the hoop back onto the machine, and embroider the tackdown for the front fabric piece. The tackdown will hold the fabric piece in place for the remainder of the design.

After the front fabric piece is in place, the inner details of the design will sew out.

Some files ("c", "d", and "e") have additional applique pieces as well. Follow the color change sheet, and sew out the applique piece's "dieline". Then spray and place the applique piece before sewing its "tackdown" step.

Then continue to embroider the inner details of the design. Stop before sewing the "back piece tackdown" step.

Stop before sewing the "back piece tackdown" step.

Remove the hoop from the machine, and turn it over so the back side of the embroidery is facing up. Spray the stabilizer of the back fabric piece with temporary adhesive, and smooth it into place on the back side of the embroidery.

As all the embroidery from here on out will be seen from both sides, wind a bobbin to match each of the remaining thread colors used into the design.

Place the bobbin into the machine, and follow the color change sheet to embroider the "back piece tackdown". Then embroider the remaining details and finishing borders.

After embroidering, tear away the excess stabilizer.

Repeat these steps to embroider all the first pieces of the angel (files "a" through "e"). Make sure to embroider two inner skirt pieces (file "a") to make a completed angel.

The wings (file "f") will be seen from both sides, so they sew out a little differently.

First start by hooping a piece of tear-away stabilizer. Embroider the "dieline". Then spray the stabilizer side of the front piece, and smooth it into place.

Then embroider the tackdown for the front fabric piece.

Before sewing any inner details, turn the hoop over so the back side of the embroidery is facing up.

Spray and place the back fabric piece on the back of the hoop inside the sewn shape.

Every embroidery step from here on out needs to have a matching bobbin used for every step and color. This is so the angel's wings will look nice from the front and back when you look at her.

Wind a bobbin to match all the thread colors used in the wings.

Then embroider the rest of the design following the color change sheet. Make sure to match the bobbin to every thread color for best results.

Once the wings have finished sewing, tear away the excess stabilizer from around the design.

If all the bobbins were matched correctly the back should look  as nice as the front.

The outer skirt piece (file "g") also embroiders differently, and will be seen from both sides very clearly.

First, cut a piece of organza and water-soluble stabilizer that are bigger than the hoop. Spray the back side of the organza well with temporary adhesive. Then smooth it on top of the water-soluble stabilizer.

There are a couple of different kinds of water-soluble stabilizer. One is clear and plastic, and that brand is Sulky Ultra Solvy. The other is soft and fibrous, called Vilene. Both will work very well. Vilene is used in this demonstration.

Use a size 11 or 75/11 sharp sewing needle. A sharp sewing needle has a smaller, finer point than an embroidery needle. That means it will make smaller holes in the stabilizer.

Hoop the organza and water-soluble stabilizer together. Make sure they are taut and have no wrinkles.

As both sides of the outer skirt will be very visible on the angel, wind a bobbin with the same thread that is being used in the top needle.

Then embroider the entire design using a matching bobbin.

After the embroidery is finished, locate the outer border of the skirt. Carefully cut right along that outer border, making sure not to actually cut any of the threads.

For best results, cut as close as possible. If a thread is cut by accident, use a little bit of clear glue to keep it in place and stop it from unraveling.

Follow the water-soluble stabilizer's instructions to remove the rest of the stabilizer. For Vilene, soak the piece in water for a couple hours. Then gently scrub the embroidered piece under running water for a few minutes to remove any stabilizer that might remain. Scrub with your hands and not anything harsher like a sponge.

Allow the piece to air dry, and then press it flat with an iron and pressing cloth.

Repeat to sew out, wash, dry, and press a total of three outer skirts pieces (file "g").

To assemble the angel, first take the two inner skirt pieces (file "a"). Lay them flat next to each other, and match up two of the long sides.

On a sewing machine, set a zigzag to a larger stitch width and a smaller stitch length. Using thread to match the embroidered borders, zigzag stitch the two pieces together side by side.

For this demonstration we used a different color thread so you can see the zigzag stitch clearly in these photos, but on your project, make sure the thread matches the embroidered borders.

For best results, sew from the top to the bottom of one long side. If the zigzag seems like it could unravel, simply use a clear fabric glue on the back of the skirt pieces right over where you started and stopped sewing the zigzag stitch.

Then repeat this technique to zigzag stitch the three outer skirt pieces together side by side. Make sure to match both the top thread and the bobbin thread to the embroidered borders.

To make the "a" outer skirt pieces into their final cone shape, match up the opposite long edges. Use and hand sewing needle and matching thread to carefully sew the long edges together. Do not glue this step, as there is a lot of tension being held here, and the glue may not last over time.

The remaining pieces can all be glued together easily using a hot glue gun.

First take the torso piece (file "b")and place glue on either of the lower triangle shaped areas. Make sure the glue is on the front side of the piece.

Slide the triangle with glue on it into the top of the inner skirt (file "a"). Match up the sides of the torso with the outer borders of the inner skirt pieces, and the top of the triangle with the top edge of the inner skirt. Hold it in place until the glue dries completely.

Then repeat to place glue on the opposite triangle shaped area of the torso piece (file "b"). Slide it into the other side of the inner skirt, and hold it in place until the glue dries.

Next, take the arm piece (file "c"). Flip it over, so you are looking at the back of the piece. Place glue on the back side of both of the shoulders at the very top where they point in.

Then place them near the top center of the torso piece (file "b"), and hold them in place until the glue dries.

Take the front head piece (file "d"), and place glue just at the bottom of the neck. Make sure the glue is on the front side of the piece.

Slide the neck into the center opening of the torso piece (file "b"), so the hair covers the shoulders of the arm piece (file "c"). Hold it in place until the glue dries.

Slide a pipe cleaner through the entire angel, so one end is resting against the back of the face piece (file "d"), and it is inside the torso (file "b") and inner skirt (file "a") pieces. This will add extra structure to the angel. Glue the pipe cleaner to the back of the angel's head.

Then trim the opposite end of the pipe cleaner so it does not stick out past the edge of the inner skirt. Hot glue that end of the pipe cleaner onto the inside of the inner skirt, so it stays in place.

Take the back of the head piece (file "e") and turn it over so you are looking at the back side of it. Spread glue on the back side of the halo and face area. Do not glue farther down into the hair, or the wings will not fit.

Matching up the edges, place the two head pieces together with wrongs sides together. Hold them in place until the glue dries.

Take the wings piece (file "f"), and locate the front side (not the back with the matched bobbins). Spread a small line of glue just down the front center of the wings on the front side.

Then slide the wings up under the back of the hair, so the glued front side is against the torso. Be careful not to get any glue on the skirt. Hold the wings in place against the torso until the glue dries. You do not need to glue the hair to the wings. In the end, the nicer front side of the wings should show from the front when you are looking at the face and arms.

To add the outer skirt, cut a length of 1/8" wide ribbon to 16" inches long.

Use a needle that has an eye wide enough for the ribbon as well as a sharp point (such as a chenille needle). Thread the ribbon onto the needle, and start threading it through the eyelets at the top of the outer skirt pieces. For best results, weave from one end to the other, and start weaving from the outer "right" side of the outer skirts.

Weave in and out of all the eyelets. The pull gently to gather the skirt together on the ribbon. This creates a gather (almost like pleats) around the top edge of the outer skirt that allows it to flare out around the angel.

Wrap the gathered outer skirt around the waist of the angel (so it matches up with the top of the inner skirt (file "a"). Tie the ribbon in a bow at the front center of the angel. Double knot or glue the bow in place, so it cannot come undone over time.

Trim the tails of the ribbon as desired, and place the angel on display. The cone skirt of the angel even allows her to be used as a Christmas tree topper.