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Christmas Stuffie (In-the-Hoop)

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Bring a cozy, classic look to your Christmas decor with these primitive stuffies. Let them play on your tabletops, or add a loop to the top to turn them into ornaments. Just stitch each piece in-the-hoop, then assemble and stuff -- we'll show you how!

Supplies


  • 1/4 yard of felt, quilter's cotton, linen, or twill (for body)
  • 1/4 yard of faux fur (for beard)
  • Tear-away stabilizer
  • Temporary spray adhesive (such as Gunold's KK100)
  • Polyester fiberfill
  • White pom-pom (3/4" for large/medium or 1/2" for small)
  • 2 buttons (1/2" for large, 3/8" for medium, or 1/4" for small) (optional)

Tools


  • Needle for hand sewing
  • Glue gun and glue sticks

Designs Used

Finished Sizes:
Large: 3 3/4" wide x 6" tall x 1 3/4" deep
Medium: 2 1/2" wide x 4 1/4" tall x 1 1/2" deep
Small: 1 3/4" wide x 3" tall x 1" deep

Special Note:
Faux fur is used for the beard. This fabric is very fluffy, and the fluff will stick out outside of the finished border that sews around the edges of the beard. This is intentional, and adds to the rustic charm of the primitive stuffie. For a cleaner look, you could instead use a different soft fabric such as minky or fleece.

When you download an in-the-hoop Christmas stuffie design, you will find multiple files. Some are the embroidery files, and the others are dieline files marked with the letters "DL". Dielines are used to cut the fabric to the correct shape and size. Open and print each dieline file using an embroidery software. If you do not have an embroidery software, take a look at our helpful video on using dielines.

Cut around the front piece paper dieline, and spray the back of it. Then smooth it onto the body fabric.

For the faux fur fabric, smooth the paper dieline onto the back of the fabric.

This will make it easier to cut out the shape and will prevent the adhesive spray from tearing off the fluff off of the front of the fabric.

Cut out the front piece, and remove the paper.

Then repeat to cut out all four fabric pieces.

Hoop a piece of tear-away stabilizer.

Madeira E-Zee Tear 1.5 oz. or Floriani Tearaway Medium are good choices. Those brands are more fibrous, less paper-like, and will tear more cleanly.

Attach the hoop to the machine and load the full embroidery file "a" (not the dieline files).

Use a size 11 or 75/11 sharp sewing needle, rather than an embroidery needle. A sharp sewing needle has a smaller, finer point than an embroidery needle, so that will make smaller perforations in the stabilizer.

Embroider the design. The first thing to embroider will be a dieline, or outline stitch. This marks the area on the stabilizer where we'll place the fabric piece.

Remove the hoop from the machine, but do not unhoop the stabilizer.

Spray the back of the front fabric piece with a temporary adhesive, and place it right inside the sewn dieline.

Attach the hoop back onto the machine and continue embroidering the design.

A tack down stitch will sew next. This binds the fabric in place for the remainder of the design.

Then the some of the inner details and the beard dieline will sew.

Watch the color change sheet for a step called "beard tack down," and stop the machine before embroidering that step. Remove the hoop from the machine, but do not unhoop the stabilizer.

Spray the back of the beard fabric piece with a temporary adhesive, and place it right inside the sewn dieline.

For best results, spray the back of the back of the faux fur very well, and press it firmly in place. This will help to prevent the fabric from getting picked up by or caught on the embroidery foot.

Place the hoop back on the machine and continue sewing.

Next, the beard tackdown will sew, followed by more details.

Keep track on your color change sheet, and stop embroidering before sewing the "finishing seam." Remove the hoop from the machine, but do not unhoop the design.

On the right side of the fabric, spray temporary adhesive around just the edges of the back fabric piece. Then place it right side down onto front piece over the embroidery and beard.

Place it back on the machine, and embroider the final seam.

Once the embroidery is finished, unhoop the stabilizer and gently tear it away from the edges.

Make sure to leave the tear-away stabilizer on the back of the fabric piece as this will add a little bit of structure to the finished piece.

Locate the top point of the stuffie, and carefully cut a few slits into the seam allowance.

Make sure to not cut into the seam. This will help the point keep its shape when turned.

Then turn the stuffie right side out.

Fold in the raw edges in about 1/4" around the opening of the stuffie. Use a iron to press the folds.

Now that the body of the stuffie (file "a") is finished, it's time to sew the base (file "b").

Hoop another piece of tear-away stabilizer, load the embroidery design, and begin sewing. Follow the color change sheet and add the fabric piece before the tackdown sews.

Finish the embroidery and tear away the excess stabilizer.

Match up the pointed corners of the opening and base piece. Begin to hand sew the satin edge and the folded edge together.

Sew all the way along the front edge, and then continue to sew until you get about halfway on the back edges.

Stopping here leaves a hole for stuffing the stuffie.

Take polyester fiberfill, and stuff the stuffie until it is very full. It is important that the stuffie is very firmly stuffed, especially at the base, so that it stands well.

Once finished stuffing, sew the opening closed.

Add more stuffing while sewing the opening smaller to make the base of the stuffie even sturdier.

Take a white pom-pom, and hot glue it on the top point to create the poof for the hat.

For the Santa stuffie, if desired, sew or glue actual buttons over the embroidered circles for an extra homemade touch.

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