Classic Christmas Tree Skirt

Celebrate Christmas in a big way when you make your own classic tree skirt! We used navy suede, and a satin lining to bring this creation to life. Plus, we even added tassels to make this finished project truly elegant. We will walk you through the process of how we made this tree skirt in the project instructions below.

• The finished tree skirt is 58" diameter from point to point, 48" diameter from indent to indent 

To start the tree skirt, print the PDF of the pattern piece. The pattern piece for the tree skirt will print out across multiple 8.5" x 11" pieces of paper. Cut all of the sections out and tape them together.

To decide what design and size you would like to embroider on the tree skirt, use the printed pattern piece as a guide. The tree skirt will have a 1/2" seam allowance which is shown around the edges of the pattern piece. One method is printing out a template of the design (as explained in the next step) and setting the template on the pattern piece to see if it will fit inside of the seam allowance. Another method is looking at the height and width of the design you are considering, and using a ruler to measure on the printed pattern to see if those measurements would fit inside the seam allowance.

A template (also called a print out) of a design is an excellent tool to help with placement. Print off a template of your design using embroidery software. Then cut out the template very close to the design to help make it easier to place and mark. If it is not obvious what side of the design is the top, it can also be very helpful to mark "top" or "up" on that edge of the printed template.

Cut out a piece of fabric that is large enough for both the tree skirt pattern piece and for embroidery hoop to have enough fabric to hoop where it needs to. Then spray a piece of cutaway stabilizer with temporary adhesive and smooth it onto the back of the fabric behind where the embroidery will be sewing.

Then place or pin the paper pattern piece on the fabric.

Use a fabric marking tool to trace the pattern shape onto the right side of the fabric. After tracing, remove the pattern piece.

Next, take the printed design template and position it as desired inside of the traced shape. Make sure to leave space in between the traced shape and the design for the 1/2" seam allowance. Use a fabric marking tool to mark the center point and both the horizontal and vertical axis lines. Then use a ruler to connect and expand these marks to make an cross hairs on your fabric. Expanding these lines makes it easier to line up the hoop when hooping the fabric.

Matching up the drawn axis lines with the marks on the hoop, hoop the fabric and stabilizer together firmly. Make sure the fabric is tight and flat in the hoop.

If embroidering on a fabric with a longer nap (such as velour, velvet, or faux fur), using a light weight stabilizer as a topper will help the embroidery to sit entirely on top of the fabric texture. This helps prevent the embroidery from sinking into the fabric texture causing the fabric to poke through the embroidery and cause gapping.

Cut a piece of the light weight stabilizer (we used Sulky Solvy) that is larger than the embroidery design. Lay it over the hooped fabric, and tape the edges down to the plastic hoop. Tapping the stabilizer to the hoop is more secure then trying to get tape to stick to the fabric.

Then attach the hoop onto the embroidery machine and load the chosen design. To make sure the embroidery will sew in the correct place, use the controls on the embroidery machine to position the needle directly over the center point drawn on the fabric. Once it is lined up, embroider the entire design.

After the embroidery is finished, remove the topper stabilizer (if used) and flip the fabric over to reveal the back of the embroidery. Trim away the excess cutaway stabilizer around the embroidery design on the backside of the embroidery. Trimming the stabilizer 1/4" -1/2" away from the edges of the design works well.

Then cut out the tree skirt pattern shape following the traced lines.

To make a complete tree skirt, 12 top pieces (like the one we just made) are needed. Repeat the previous steps to trace, embroider, and cut out all 12 of the top pieces of the tree skirt. Embroider as many or as few of the 12 top pieces as desired. They can all be the same fabric and embroidery design, or you can create different looks by alternating different fabrics, patterns, and designs.

Once you have all 12 of the top pieces, lay them out to decide what order they should go in around the tree skirt. Also decide which 2 of the 12 pieces you want to be the back of the tree skirt. There will be a opening and ties between these two back pieces, so the tree skirt can be opened and secured around the base of the tree.

To begin sewing together the top half of the tree skirt, select two back pieces that will be side by side. Lay them on top of each other with right sides together, and pin along the long side where they need to be connected.

Sew a 1/2" seam along the pinned side to connect them.

Then press the seam open so the pieces lay flat side-by-side.

Repeat to sew all 12 top pieces together side-by-side, but do not sew the two back pieces together. In the end, you will have all 12 pieces joined in a circle, but with one unsewn side between the two back pieces, creating a gap.

Then use the paper pattern to also cut out 12 pieces from the bottom fabric. Pin and sew them together just as you did the top pieces. Make sure to leave a gap between two of the sides in the back for the bottom fabric pieces as well.

For the opening, we recommend using six ties that are 10" long on the tree skirt. These ties can be made out of coordinating fabric using a iron and sewing machine. If preferred, you can also use premade cord, ribbon, or straps to create the ties.

On both sides of the back opening, position a tie 3/4" from the top, one in the center, and one 3/4" from the bottom edge. Match up one end of each tie with the long edge of the fabric. Most of the tie material should be laying away from the open edge, draped across the right-side of the fabric on both sides as pictured. Once the ties are pinned along the open edge, tape or pin the long section of each tie so that it cannot get caught in the seam when sewing.

If sewing in any trims, tassels, or other accents around the outer edge of the tree skirt. Position and pin them around the pointed edges of the tree skirt as desired. Keep the 1/2" seam allowance in mind when placing them. Also make sure to place each tassel with the part you want to see facing inward, laying on the right side of the fabric. This ensures that it will be seen on the outside when the tree skirt is turned right side out. If using something long like tassels, tape or pin them out of the way so they don't shift and get caught in the seam when sewing.

Once all the ties and accents are pinned in place, lay the bottom or lining piece over the top piece with right sides together. Match up the edges and the back openings carefully. Pin the top and bottom pieces together along all the pointed outer edges, the open sides with the ties, and the inner center edges.

Before sewing, we need to select a place to leave an opening in the seam, so the tree skirt can be turned right side out. The easiest place for this is between two of the ties on just one edge of the back pieces.

Now, sew a 1/2" seam along all of the pinned edges, but make sure to leave an opening between two of the ties. Be careful to sew far enough that the ties are both sewn securely into the seam on either side of the opening,

To help the edges of the tree skirt be pretty and crisp once turned, slits need to be cut into the seam allowance along the inner curved edge as well as at every inner and outer corner and point. Be careful not to cut the seam.

Once the slits are cut in the seams, turn the tree skirt right side out through the opening

Press all the edges until they lay nice and flat. Also press the raw edges of the opening in by 1/2". After pressing, you can also pin along all the pressed edges to hold them in place while sewing. Then top stitch around all the outer pressed edges of the tree skirt to secure them in place, and close the opening. For best results, use a spool of thread matching the top fabric in the top needle, and also match your bobbin thread to the color of the bottom fabric. This way the thread matches the fabric on both sides.

As a final optional finishing step, you can quilt the top and bottom fabric together to help it lay nicer under the tree. This can be done by carefully pinning the layers together and then sewing up each of the seams between the 12 pieces (again using thread matching the top and bottom fabrics). Or you can even quilt together the layers by sewing across the sections using fun repeating patterns or even embroidery designs.