Draw a vertical line on the tag board, 8 inches long. Then, draw a horizontal line out 7 inches from the bottom of the vertical line.

Draw a line connecting the ends of the two lines creating a triangular shape.

Cut out the shape.

Label the base of the pattern by marking it along the 7 inch side of the pattern.

To plan for cutting on the bias, fold the uncut twill fabric in half, wrong sides together, so the selvage edge meets the cut edge (forming a triangle).

Lay the pattern on the right end of the fabric with the pointed end facing the edge of the fabric and the base edge facing in. Mark the point and the right edge of the pattern onto the fabric.

Flip the pattern over and lay it on the opposite end of the fabric, measuring 61 inches between the tip of the first marking to the tip of the flipped pattern. Mark the point and the left side of the pattern onto the fabric.

Open the folded fabric and lay it out flat, ready for connecting the points you have marked on both ends.

Draw a line connecting the bottom of the marked lines. Then measure up 7 1/4 inches from the center of this line. This will help bridge the long connection for the top line.

Draw a line connecting the mark you just made with the top points of the pattern lines.

Cut around the fabric leaving about 2 inches of excess around the marked lines.

Using embroidery software, create a paper template of the first design by printing it at full size. Cut around the template to make it a manageable size.

Place the template near the end of the fabric in the corner. Align the template with the grain of the fabric.

Center the template by measuring equal distances between the edges of the fabric and the center of the template. Poke a hole in the center of the template, and mark the center onto the fabric. Also, mark the horizontal and vertical axis points.

Remove the template and draw lines connecting the horizontal and vertical axis points. These lines will be used for hooping.

Hoop the fabric with a lightweight or medium weight stabilizer.

Spray the stabilizer with temporary adhesive and smooth the fabric over the stabilizer.

Hoop the fabric and stabilizer together by aligning the marks on the hoop with the lines on the fabric.

Note: Kenny used Floriani's No Show Fusible Mesh, which is sturdy and supports the embroidery design. It is also lightweight, which allows the fabric to drape nicely. Fusible stabilizer does not need to be sprayed with temporary adhesive.

Attach the hoop to the machine, load the design, align the needle directly over the center point on the fabric, and embroider the design.

Repeat the template positioning, hooping, and embroidering process for the other end of the fabric. 

Once the designs have been embroidered, carefully trim away the excess stabilizer. 

Cut out the shape from the fabric.

Lay the charmeuse fabric flat, right side up. Then lay the embroidered fabric right side down on the charmeuse, along the bias. Pin the fabric in place and, using the edges of the embroidered fabric as your pattern, cut out the shape.

Sew a 1/4 inch seam along the long sides only, leaving the ends open for turning.

Turn the scarf right side out and press the side seams.

Fold the open ends in 1/4 inch and press in place.

Cut two 8-inch lengths of the beaded trim.

Add the trim in between the layers of the ends of the scarf and pin in place.

Use a zipper foot to sew a seam right along the ends of the scarf, closing the ends and sewing the trim in place.

Top stitch along the sides with a 1/8 inch seam.

Now you have a fun fashion accessory to jazz up any outfit!