To begin, click here to open a PDF of the stocking pattern. Then print the pattern pieces. There are three pieces of the stocking that will print on three separate pieces of paper.

Cut out each shape by cutting around the outer lines. Then, align Section 1 and Section 2 together and tape in place. We will refer to this portion as the "stocking pattern". Leave Section 3 separate for now. Section 3 will be referred to as the "top cuff pattern".

Cut out the front and back panel of the sweater by cutting along each side seam and along the shoulder and neck line.

Now we will prepare the front piece of the stocking for the embroidery. Lay the stocking pattern in the center of the sweater material on the right side of the fabric. Pin in place, and trace the shape.

Remove the pattern. Create paper templates of the designs by printing them at full size using embroidery software (trim around the designs for easy placement). If you don't have embroidery software, you can cut a piece of paper the shape and dimensions of the designs to help with placement and centering. Position the designs where you want them - leave at least one inch of space between the edges of the designs and the edges of the shape. With an air-erase pen (or other marking tool), poke holes in the centers of the templates and mark the fabric. Also, mark the horizontal and vertical axis points of each template.

Remove the templates and draw lines connecting the axis marks - these lines will be used for hooping.

Spray a piece of cutaway stabilizer with temporary adhesive and smooth the fabric on top. Hoop the material for the first design by laying a piece of water-soluble topping over the area to be embroidered and hoop all the layers together by aligning the marks on the hoop with the lines on the fabric. We are embroidering on heavy ribbed sweater material so we are using a heavy weight water-soluble stabilizer (we prefer Sulky Ultra Solvy). Using a heavy weight water-soluble stabilizer as topping will prevent the stitches from sinking into the material and distorting the design. You may use a light water-soluble topping for smooth, light sweater material.

Attach the hoop to the machine and load the first design. Move the hoop so that the needle is directly over the center point on the fabric. Embroider the design. After the design has finished, hoop and embroider the remaining designs as you did the first.

When all the designs have finished, trim away the excess stabilizer on the back of the embroidery. Also, gently tear away the water-soluble stabilizer away from the embroidery. If there is any stabilizer remaining, spray or dab the embroidery with a little water and gently rub the stabilizer away.

To further stabilize the fabric for the sewing process, we ironed on a layer of fusible cutaway stabilizer to the back of the embroidered front piece (we used Floriani No Show Mesh Fusible). You may also use one layer of fusible interfacing. Doing this will prevent the stretchy sweater material from distorting while sewing.

Cut out the shape.

To prepare the back piece, iron on one layer of fusible stabilizer to the wrong side of the remaining sweater material. Pin the stocking pattern on top of the stabilizer and trace the shape. Then, cut out the shape.

To prepare the fabric for the cuff, cut two pieces of the print cotton fabric by laying the top cuff pattern on top of the fabric, tracing and then cutting around the shape.

Lay the front and back stocking pieces with the right sides facing up. Align one of the short ends of the cuff pieces with the top edges of the stocking pieces with the right sides together. Pin in place.

Sew a 1/2 inch seam along the pinned edges only.

Flip the cuff pieces up over the top edges of the stocking pieces, press in place with an iron, and sew a 1/4 inch seam along the seam edges.

Align align the assembled stocking and cuff pieces together with the right sides together. Pin in place and sew a 1/2 inch seam along the side and bottom edges - leave the top edge open for turning.

Cut slits about every 1/2 inch along the curved edges of the seam allowance. Be careful to not cut any of the seam stitching. Doing this will allow the stocking to be shaped properly after turning.

Turn the stocking right side out. 

Now we will prepare the pattern for the inner lining. Align the bottom edge of the top cuff pattern with the top edge of the stocking pattern and tape in place.

Lay the inner lining pattern on top of two layers of the print cotton fabric (fabric should lay with the right sides together) and pin in place. Trace the shape.

Remove the pattern, pin the fabric pieces together inside the shape, and cut out the shape (cut through both layers of the fabric). Sew 1/2 inch seams starting at the top corners and stopping at the bottom leaving a 7 inch opening.

Insert the outer shell portion of the stocking inside the inner lining with the toes and top edges aligned. Pin the top edges in place.

Sew a 1/2 inch seam along the entire top edge.

Pull the outer shell out from the inner lining through the opening.

Turn the fabric of the opening in 1/2 inch and press in place. Also press the seams of the inner lining.

Insert the inner lining inside the stocking leaving 7 inches outside of the stocking - this will become the folded cuff. Press the top edges of the cuff and top stitch a 1/4 inch seam along the entire top edge.

Roll the cuff down until the top edge meets the bottom edge. Tack the cuff in place by hand sewing a few stitches at each side seam.

Now we will prepare the loop. Cut a piece of the print cotton 2 inches wide by 7 inches high. Fold the short ends in 1/4 inch and press. Then, fold the long edges in to meet in the middle of the fabric and press.

Fold the long folded edges together, press, and sew a seam around the entire outer edge of the loop.

Wrap the ends around the top right side seam, pin and sew in place.

Add sparkly charms and decorations by hand sewing them in place. We added this charm in the center of the top cuff.

The stocking is complete! Hang it on the mantle and enjoy for many years to come