Freestanding lace designs have been specially digitized for water-soluble stabilizer. After the stabilizer is removed, beautiful embroidery remains. When you download the design, you will find two files containing the pieces of the freestanding lace photo frame ornament.

There are a couple of different kinds of water-soluble stabilizer. One is clear and plastic, and that brand is Sulky Ultra Solvy. The other is soft and fibrous, called Vilene. Both work very well. Vilene is used in this demonstration. Use a size 11 or 75/11 sharp sewing needle. A sharp sewing needle has a smaller, finer point than an embroidery needle. That means it will make smaller holes in the stabilizer.

As the freestanding lace will be seen from both sides, wind a bobbin with the same thread that is being used in the top needle.

Hoop the stabilizer firmly. Make sure it is nice and taut with no wrinkles.

Attach the hoop to the machine and load file "a". Embroider the first piece using a matching bobbin.

After embroidering, trim away the excess stabilizer.

The stabilizer's packaging should give instructions for removing the excess. For Vilene, soak the embroidered lace for a few moments.

Allow the lace to air dry and then press it with a pressing cloth on top.

Repeat the steps above to embroider the second piece of the lace frame (file "b").

Position the front lace piece (file "a") on the photo as desired. Make sure the front piece is rotated correctly so that the photo will not be crooked when hanging.

Some front pieces (file "a") are simple shapes, and some will have extra lace details around the edge like this snowflake. Only trace the simple shape, not the extra details as it will be easier to cut out and glue.

Remove the front piece (file "a") from the photo. If needed, use a ruler to connect the lines to complete the traced shape.

Then cut out the photo following the traced shape.

In this tutorial, the ornament is glued together. If preferred, you can hand sew the pieces together by sewing through the paper and lace. Simply use thread matching the embroidery, and assemble the pieces in the same order as shown.

Each front piece (file "a"), will have small areas of filled embroidery included in the design. These filled areas are meant to hide glue being used to assemble.

On the wrong side of the lace, place small dots of glue only on these filled areas. You do not need to spread glue all the way around the lace. Using less glue will look better, and prevent the picture from wrinkling due to moisture.

Glue the wrong side of the lace onto the front of the photo. Make sure to match up the cut edges of the photo with shape of the lace.

Place glue on the back of the photo: a few dots of glue near the edges, and one dot in the center is enough. Using less glue will prevent the picture from wrinkling due to moisture.

Then glue the back of the photo onto the right side of the back lace piece (file "b"). Make sure to line up the front piece (file "a") with the back piece (file "b") carefully so they are layered nicely.

To add a hanger, cut a piece of ribbon that is 7" long. Thread it through the top loop of the ornament, and tie the ends into a knot to make a loop.

To stiffen the lace frame for uses other than hanging, cut a piece of matching cardstock to the shape of the back piece. Then hot glue the cardstock onto the back of the lace frame. We recommend 60 lb. cardstock or heavier for best results.

To make the lace frame into a magnet, glue 1/2" round magnets onto the backside of the lace frame or cardstock backing.

Once your lace frame ornament has a cardstock backing, it's easy to place your frame on a 3" - 3.5" plate stand and display it for your friends and family. Or, if you prefer, attach a premade 3" self-adhesive easel stand. This type of stand usually comes with adhesive pre-applied, but they can also be hot glued in place for a more permanent hold.