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Front Flap Purse (In-the-Hoop)

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Lend a little flair to any outfit with this small crossbody purse! Stitch the front and back separately to add embroidered embellishments to each, then assemble in-the-hoop and add a strap. Follow the step-by-step instructions below to create your own stylish purse!

Supplies


Project Needs & Notes:

- 1/2 yard of thin and soft faux leather, vinyl, leather or ultrasuede (for outside of purse and straps)
- 1/2 yard of quilter's cotton (for the lining)
- 2 D-rings (1 1/4" for largest size, 1" for medium size, 3/4" for smallest size)
- Sew on snap or magnet closure
- Tear-away stabilizer
- Temporary adhesive spray (such a Gunold KK100)
- Masking tape
- Rotary cutter
- Straight edge
- Seam ripper

Designs featured in this tutorial include:
X14463, Folk Flowers Leather Purse (In-the-Hoop)

Designs Used

To make this purse, the first thing you need to do is cut out the straps. The straps need to be cut out first, so you can use the full width of the fabric to make them.

Using a straight edge and a rotary cutter, cut two straps 3/4" wide (smallest size), 1" wide (medium size), or 1 1/4" wide (largest size) by 40"-55" long. To determine the length, use a tape measure and hang it over your shoulder in the same way you'd wear the purse straps, and then add 4" to the length that feels comfortable to you.

Wind a bobbin with the same thread as you'll be using in the top needle so the strap attachment looks nice from either side.

For best results, simply use the same thread as you'll be using in the embroidery, so all the stitching will match. Then this bobbin can be used on the straps and the embroidery as well.

Then take one of the two straps, and spray the wrong side with temporary adhesive. Carefully, lay the other strap on top of it with wrong sides together.

Make sure to match up the edges. Using a matching bobbin and a sewing machine, sew 1/4" seam along both sides to bind the two straps together. This will create a finished strap that looks nice on both sides.

This in-the-hoop design has five files. Two are full embroidery files. The other three are dieline files marked with the letters DL.

Dielines are used to cut the fabric to the right shape and size. Open the dieline files with embroidery software and print them.  If you do not have embroidery software, Wilcom TrueSizer is a free program to use.

Next take the printed dieline for the front fabric piece, spray the back side of the paper with temporary adhesive and smooth it onto the wrong side of the faux leather or leather.

Placing it on the wrong side of the fabric will prevent the sticky residue from building up on the right side of the faux leather or leather.

Cut around the shape, and repeat to cut out all the other dieline pieces. Make sure to print each of the dielines twice, and cut one faux leather piece and one lining piece out of the front and back dielines.

Also make sure to cut out two strap attachments (the small rectangle) out of the faux leather.

Next take the two strap attachments, and spray the wrong side of the fabric with temporary adhesive. Then slide a D-ring onto both of them.

The smallest size uses a 3/4" D-ring, the medium size uses a 1" D-ring, and the largest size uses a 1 1/4" D-ring.

Make sure the D-ring rests in the center of each strap attachment. Fold the strap attachment in half with the D-ring in the center.

Now that the strap attachments and straps are all ready to go, it's time to embroider the purse.

Hoop a piece of tearaway stabilizer, and load the front piece embroidery file (labeled with an "a") onto the machine.

Begin to embroider file "a". The first thing to embroider is the dieline which shows you where to place the front piece.

Spray the back side of the front faux leather piece with temporary adhesive, and carefully smooth it in place within the shape.

Then continue to embroider the design. Follow the color change sheet to embroider the "tackdown" step followed by all the inner details.

Make sure to stop before sewing the "lining tackdown" step.

Before sewing the "lining tackdown" step, remove the hoop from the machine, and flip it over so the back side is facing up.

Then spray the back side on the front lining piece with temporary adhesive, and smooth it in place inside of the first sewn dieline.

Again, wind a bobbin with the same thread that's being used in the top needle, and place it in the machine. The final color steps will be seen from both sides.

Then place the hoop back onto the machine, and embroider the "lining tackdown" and the "top edge detail" colors steps.

Once the embroidery is finished, unhoop the front piece, and tear away the excess stabilizer from around the edges of the faux leather. The dieline stitches will also be torn away from the edges.

Then hoop another piece of tearaway stabilizer, and load the back piece embroidery file (labeled with a "b") onto machine.

Begin to embroider the design. The dieline will sew out first.

Spray the wrong side of faux leather piece, and smooth it into place. Then follow the color change sheet to sew the decorative details.

Then embroider the "strap dielines", and stop the machine before sewing the "strap tackdown" step.

The strap dielines show where to place small strap attachments that were sewn together earlier with the D-rings.

Take both strap attachments, and place them over the dielines so the edges line up with the small arms extending from the sewn square.

Make sure the D-rings are facing up towards the top of the purse, and tape them in place. For best results, tape right over where they are going to be embroidered, so they don't shift at all or get bumped out of place by the embroidery foot.

Then embroider the "strap tackdown" step.

Stop the machine again before sewing the "lining and pocket tackdown". Remove all the tape from the straps before continuing.

Using the point of a seam ripper to pull up the edges of the tape makes it easier.

Next, turn the hoop over so the back side is facing up. Spray the back side of the back lining piece with temporary adhesive, and smooth it into place inside the original dieline.

Then take the front piece that was embroidered first. Spray only along the edges of the two sides and bottom to prevent the inside of the pocket from being super sticky. Carefully line up the edges, and smooth it into place over the lining.

As all of the final stitching will be seen from both sides, place the matching bobbin back into the machine.

Place the hoop back onto the machine, and embroider the "lining and pocket tackdown" as well as the "finishing seam" step. This will adhere all the pieces together, and then sew the decorative border around the purse.

Once the embroidery is finished, tear away all the excess stabilizer from around the design

Take the finished strap that was made earlier, and loop one end through one D-ring. Fold the end up around the D-ring about 1", and sew it in place using a matching bobbin and sewing machine.

Before sewing the other end on the other D-ring, simply slide it through the D-ring, and then check and make sure the strap isn't twisted at all as this will make it uncomfortable to wear. Then repeat, and sew the other end.

Add on a snap, magnet, or other closure to complete the purse.

Using one that sews or glues on will work best as it won't stab through the flap of the purse, and be seen on the front side of the flap. You could also add a button on the front and a little leather loop on the edge of the flap for a closure as well.

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