How to Create Reverse Applique

Take applique to the next level with reverse applique embroidery! Cut a silhouette out of your main fabric, then add applique fabric to the back. We'll show you how!

This reverse applique design has two files. One is the full embroidery file. The other one is a dieline file marked with the letters DL.

Dielines are used to cut the fabric to the right shape and size. Open the dielines files with embroidery software and print them.

If you do not have embroidery software, Wilcom's TrueSizer is a free program to use.

Spray the backside of the printed dieline with a small amount of temporary adhesive. Smooth it onto a piece of fabric.

Cut out the shape. Remove the paper.

Now that the fabric piece is cut to the proper shape and size, it's time to embroider the design.

Spray a piece of cutaway stabilizer, and smooth it onto the back of the fabric behind where the embroidery will sew.

Then hoop the fabric and stabilizer together, making sure there are no wrinkles.

Attach the hoop to the machine and load the full embroidery design (not the dieline file).

Begin to embroider the design. The first thing to embroider will be a details of the design.

Then, the inner cutline will embroider.

Watch the color change sheet, and stop the machine before sewing the tack down step.

After the cut lines have sewn, remove the hoop but do not unhoop the fabric.

Place the hoop onto a cutting pad. Then, using a sharp craft knife, carefully cut out the opening by cutting along the inner cutline.

Make sure to remove all of the thread from the inner cutline stitching, so that they do not show on your final product.

Also make sure to cut through both the fabric and the cutaway stabilizer.

Next, take your fabric dieline, and carefully tape it onto the back of the hooped fabric behind the embroidery, making sure the right side of the fabric piece is facing down, so you can see it on the embroidered side.

Make sure to also place the fabric dieline, so that it covers the entire cut hole.

If desired, spray the edges of the right side of the dieline with temporary adhesive instead of using tape.

Attach the hoop back onto the machine and continue with the design.

A tack down will sew next. This holds the back fabric dieline in place.

After the embroidery is finished sewing, carefully remove the tape from the back of the design.