These freestanding designs have been specifically digitized to sew on organza hooped with a piece of water soluble stabilizer.

After the excess organza is cut away and the stabilizer is removed, beautiful embroidery and organza remains.

There are a couple different kind of water-soluble stabilizer. One is clear and plastic, and that brand is Sulky Ultra Solvy. The other is soft and fibrous, called Vilene. Both work well. Vilene is used in this demonstration.

Use a size 11 or a 75/11 sharp sewing needle. A sharp sewing needle has a smaller, finer point than an embroidery needle. That means it will make smaller holes in the stabilizer.

Cut a piece of both organza and water-soluble stabilizer that are larger than the embroidery hoop.

Spray the water-soluble stabilizer with temporary adhesive, and smooth the piece of organza on top of it.

Hoop the organza and water-soluble stabilizer together firmly. Make sure it is nice and taut with no wrinkles.

As this design will be seen from both sides, wind a bobbin to match every thread color used in the design.

It is very important to sew out the first embroidery file (file "A") before sewing the second file (file "B"), since "B" includes steps that will sew the two files together.

Attach the hoop to the machine and load the first embroidery file (file "A"). Follow the color change sheet, and embroider the details of the design.

Then the "placement dieline" will embroider. This sewn dieline will show how to position this piece (file "A") on top of the second embroidery file (file "B") later.

Once all the embroidery is finished, unhoop the embroidered organza and stabilizer.

Leaving a 1/2" margin of organza around the embroidery, cut a circle around the embroidered shape. Do not cut perfectly around the embroidery yet, as some embroidery details in the second file (file "B") may sew over or beyond the details of this piece.

After the first piece (file "A") is sewn out, hoop another piece of organza and water-soluble stabilizer that are adhered together with temporary spray adhesive.

Still matching all bobbins, embroider the details of the second file (file "B").

Then embroider the "placement dieline". This will show where to place the first piece (file "A") on top of the second piece (file "B").

Without unhooping the second fabric piece (file "B"), take the first piece (file "A"), and spray the wrong side with temporary spray adhesive. Lay it on top of the hooped piece (file "B") with the wrong side of the "A" piece facing down against the right side of "B".

The "placement dielines" are a circle with a "Y" inside on both pieces. To place the fabric pieces correctly, match up the edges of the circle, and then rotate the first piece (file "A") until the lines of the "Y" match up as well.

Matching up the points of the two "Y"s of the files will allow the pieces to be perfectly offset, so they will alternate beautifully.

Then place the hoop back on the machine, match the bobbin, and embroider the "Top piece tackdown". This will attach the first piece (file "A") in place on top of the hooped "B" file.

Follow the color change sheet, continue to match all bobbins, and embroider the remaining center details.

Once all the embroidery is finished, unhoop the layered organza design and carefully cut around the outer edges.

Cut as close to the embroidery as you are comfortable, but make sure not to cut into the embroidery. If you accidentally cut the embroidery, using a small amount of clear fabric glue can help adhere the stitching in place so it does not unravel.

Continue to carefully cut around the outer edge of the designs until both the "A" and "B" files are cut out.

The stabilizers packaging should give instructions for removing the remaining water-soluble stabilizer. For Vilene, soak the embroidered design in water for a few hours.

Allow the design to air dry. If needed, press the design with a pressing cloth on top to remove any wrinkles in the organza.