Create the perfect accent for your wardrobe with in-the-hoop leather earrings. A combination of tearaway stabilizer and either leather or faux leather provide a sturdy foundation for designs that are a stitch to create. Follow along with our step-by-step project instructions to make your own.
Supplies
Project Needs & Notes:
- Small pieces of leather or faux leather
- Embroidery thread
- Tearaway stabilizer
- Temporary spray adhesive (such as Gunold's KK100)
- Scissors
- Awl
- Earring hooks
- 6mm jump rings
- Needle nose pliers
Designs featured in this tutorial include:
- X15305, Fluttering Butterfly Leather Earrings (In-the-Hoop)
Designs Used
This design is specially digitized to sew on a hooped piece of tearaway stabilizer. After the pieces are embroidered, the stabilizer is removed, and the leather is trimmed down to the final shape.
Before embroidering, cut out four squares in total (using either leather or faux leather), making sure that each piece is bigger than the finished embroidery area for each file.
You can find the size of the individual embroidery files by opening them in embroidery software or on your machine. We cut each fabric piece into a 3 inch square. Two squares will be the front and back fabric pieces of file "a". The other two squares will be used for the front and back of file "b."
Once all the fabric pieces are cut to the correct size, it is time to embroider the design.
Hoop a piece of tearaway stabilizer. Madeira E-Zee 1.5 oz or Floriani Tearaway Medium are good choices. Those brands are more fibrous, less like paper, and will tear more cleanly.
Attach the hoop to the machine and load embroidery file "a."
Use a 75/11 sharp sewing needle instead of an embroidery needle. The sharp sewing needle has a finer point and it will make smaller perforations in the stabilizer.
The first thing to embroider will be a "fabric dieline" (or outline stitch). This marks the area on the stabilizer where the fabric piece will be placed.
After the fabric dieline has sewn, remove the hoop from the machine but do not unhoop the stabilizer. Spray the wrong side of the front fabric piece with temporary spray adhesive. Place the fabric on the stabilizer over the sewn fabric dieline.
Next, place the hoop back onto the machine and embroider the "front piece tackdown." A tackdown holds the fabric piece in place for the remainder of the design.
The next step to embroider will be the "cut line." This marks the area on the leather where the finished design will later be cut out.
Follow the color change sheet to embroider the inner details of the design.
A small circle near the top of the design will also embroider. This circle is the "hole punch guide." It marks where a hole will be punched for a jump ring using an awl. This will be done in a later step.
For the butterfly, the hole punch guide is actually at the top corner of the wings.
Before sewing the "back piece tackdown," remove the hoop from the machine. Do not unhoop the stabilizer. Turn the hoop over so the back side is facing up. Spray the back fabric piece with temporary spray adhesive. Then, smooth the back fabric piece over the shape on the back side of the hoop.
As all the bobbin stitching from here on out will be seen from both sides, wind a bobbin with the same thread that is being used in the top needle.
Reattach the hoop and embroider the "back piece tackdown."
Once the embroidery is finished, carefully tear the excess stabilizer away from between the two leather pieces.
Then, using scissors, carefully cut along the inner edge of the "cut line."
Cutting along the inside of the cut line will remove those stitches from the leather piece, leaving a clean and smooth fabric edge.
Using an awl, punch a hole in the center of embroidered "hole punch guide." Be careful not to rip or tear any of the embroidery.
To complete the first earring, use a pair of needle nose pliers to open the jump ring of your earring hardware. Loop both the earring hook and the leather earring onto the jump ring. Then, close the jump ring using the pliers.
To make the second earring, use the remaining two leather squares to repeat the same process, starting at step three. This time sew out the "b" file instead of the "a" file.