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Ruffled Brooch (Battenburg Lace)

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Bring a little antique charm to any outfit with this ruffled Battenburg lace brooch! Stitch this freestanding lace machine embroidery design, then pull the center points together and add a button to complete your brooch. Our step-by-step instructions will show you how!

Supplies


Project Needs & Notes:

- Water-soluble stabilizer (such as Vilene or Sulky Ultra Solvy)
- Needle for hand sewing
- Small piece of felt
- Button (1" - 1 1/2")
- 1" safety pin
- Craft or fabric glue (optional)

The design featured in this tutorial is:
M16208, Ruffled Brooch (Battenburg Lace)

Designs Used

Freestanding lace designs have been specially digitized for water-soluble stabilizer. After the stabilizer is removed, beautiful lace remains behind.

There are a couple of different kinds of water-soluble stabilizer. One is clear and plastic, and that brand is Sulky Ultra Solvy. The other is soft and fibrous, called Vilene. Both will work very well. Vilene is used in this demonstration.

Use a size 11 or 75/11 sharp sewing needle. A sharp sewing needle has a smaller, finer point than an embroidery needle. That means it will make smaller holes in the stabilizer.

Battenburg lace is digitized for 30-35 weight cotton thread. This thread brings a classic, hearty, and traditional look to the lace pieces. 30-35 weight cotton thread is found under different names, such as mercerized cotton or all-purpose cotton.

Because freestanding lace is seen from both sides, wind a bobbin with the same cotton thread that you're using in the needle.

Hoop the stabilizer firmly. Make sure it is nice and tight with no wrinkles.

Attach the hoop to the machine and embroider the design. The one color lace piece will sew all the way through.

After embroidering, trim away the excess stabilizer.

The stabilizer's packaging should give instructions for removing the excess. For Vilene, soak the lace pieces for a few moments.

Allow the lace to air dry, then press with a pressing cloth on top.

This lace brooch has 18 triangle darts that create ruffles when folded and sewn.

Pick one dart, and fold it with the wrong sides of the lace together.

Match up the two opposite straight sides, and sew them together by placing four or five whip stitches along the edges from the inner point to the outer point.

Be sure to sew on the right side of the lace for this dart.

Make sure to also place a few stitches over the very end of the two edges to make the dart more secure.

Then go to the dart directly next to the one that was just sewn.

Fold the lace piece in the opposite direction along that dart, making sure the right sides of the lace are touching this time.

Then hand stitch on the wrong side of the lace to close the dart.

Repeat the last few steps to sew all of the darts around the entire lace brooch.

Make sure to keep alternating which way you fold the dart every time (one with right sides together, then one with wrong sides together, then the next with right sides together again, and continued like an accordion fold.)

Once the darts are all sewn, re-fold and press each of them with your fingers. This will fix any darts that tried to become flat again while sewing.

Cut a small circle out of felt that has a diameter of 1".

Place the felt circle on the back of the ruffled brooch, lining it up so that it covers the center hole.

Using a hand sewing needle or glue, attach the felt circle only to the darts that bend towards the backside of the brooch (those sewn with right sides together).

Connecting the felt circle to only those darts will reinforce the ruffles.

Take the button, and place it over the center hole on the front of the brooch. Sew or glue it to the felt backing piece to hold it in place.

Finally, sew a safety pin to the backside of the felt circle.