Bring a soft, sweet look to your sewing room decor with this pretty scissors case! Stitch up each piece in-the-hoop, then assemble. Freestanding lace makes a lovely flap to close up your case!
Supplies
Project Needs & Notes:
- 1/4 yard linen or quilter's cotton
- Tear-away stabilizer
- Water-soluble stabilizer (such as Vilene or Sulky Ultra Solvy)
- Temporary spray adhesive (such as Gunold KK100)
- 1 button (1/2" for small, 5/8" for medium, or 3/4" for large size)
- Needle for hand sewing or fabric glue
- Air erase pen for marking
Designs featured in this tutorial include:
- X13902, Shabby Chic Scissors Case (In-the-Hoop)
Finished Size:
Small: 3 1/4" wide x 4 3/4" tall (fits scissors 1 1/2" wide x 4" tall or smaller)
Medium: 4" wide x 6" tall (fits scissors 2 1/4" wide x 5" tall or smaller)
Large: 4 3/4" wide by 7" tall (fits scissors 3" wide x 6" tall or smaller)
Designs Used
When you download the Shabby Chic Scissors Case design, you'll find four files. Two are embroidery files, and the other two are dieline files, marked with the letters DL. Dielines are used to cut the fabric to the right shape and size.
Open each dieline file with an embroidery software, and print it. If you do not have embroidery software, Wilcom TrueSizer is a free program to use.
First prepare the front fabric piece for file "a." Cut around the front paper dieline, spray the backside with temporary adhesive, and smooth it onto the right side of the fabric. For this tutorial, it can be helpful to label the pieces with "front" and "back," so it is easier to tell the two fabric pieces apart when embroidering.
Cut out the piece, and leave the paper on, so the label remains. Folding back one corner of the paper dieline can make it easier to remove later.
For the back fabric piece of this case, we want the fabric to be doubled up with the right side of the fabric facing out on both sides. To do that, cut a piece of fabric that is twice as big as the back piece dieline. Then spray the wrong side of the fabric with temporary adhesive, and fold it in half with wrong sides together. Once the fabric is smoothly folded together, spray and place the labeled back dieline on top.
Then cut out the back piece.
Now that all of the fabric pieces are prepared, hoop a piece of tear-away stabilizer tightly. Madeira E-Zee Tear 1.5 oz. or Floriani Tearaway Medium are good choices. Those brands are more fibrous, less paper-like, and will tear more cleanly.
Attach the hoop to the machine and load the full embroidery file "a" (not the dieline files).
Use a size 11 or 75/11 sharp sewing needle, rather than an embroidery needle. A sharp sewing needle has a smaller, finer point than an embroidery needle, so that will make smaller perforations in the stabilizer.
Embroider the design. The first thing to embroider will be a dieline, or outline stitch. This marks the area on the stabilizer where we'll place the front fabric piece.
After the dieline has sewn, remove the hoop from the machine, but do not unhoop the stabilizer.
Remove the paper dieline, and spray the back side of the front fabric piece with temporary adhesive. Then smooth the fabric piece right inside the sewn dieline.
Continue to embroider the design. Next a tackdown will sew, binding the fabric to the stabilizer for the rest of the design. The top edge border will sew after the tackdown.
Then all of the inner details will embroider.
Follow the color change sheet, and stop the machine after the back piece dieline has sewn. Then remove the hoop from the machine, but do not unhoop the stabilizer.
Flip the hoop over, and set it onto the table with the back side facing up.
Remove the paper dieline, and spray the back of the fabric piece with temporary adhesive. Carefully smooth it into place inside of the dieline on the back of the embroidery.
Place the hoop back onto the machine, and embroider the rest of the design. A tackdown will sew first, followed by the final border.
When the embroidery has finished, tear away the excess stabilizer from around the design.
To embroider the lace flap (file "b"), hoop a piece of water-soluble stabilizer tightly, making sure there are no wrinkles. There are a couple of different kinds of water-soluble stabilizer. One is clear and plastic, and that brand is Sulky Ultra Solvy. The other is soft and fibrous, called Vilene. Both will work very well. Vilene is used in this demonstration.
As both sides of the lace flap will be seen, wind a bobbin with the same thread that you are using in the top needle. Load it into the machine before embroidering.
Attach the hoop to the machine, load the lace file (labeled with a "b"), and embroider the entire design.
After the lace is finished embroidering, trim away the excess water-soluble stabilizer from around the design.
The stabilizer's packaging should give instructions for removing the excess. For Vilene, soak the lace pieces for a few moments.
Then allow the lace to air dry. Once dry, press the lace with a pressing cloth on top.
Lay the lace flap on top of the scissors case, and make sure the right sides of both pieces are facing up. Match up the top straight edges, and use a hand sewing needle to stitch the two pieces together just along the top side.
Once the flap is securely attached, mark where the biggest loop sits on the fabric by placing one dot right in the center of the loop. Use an air-erase pen for best results.
Then move the flap out of the way, and hand sew the button right over the mark. Each size of the scissors case uses a different size button. To know what size to used check the supply list above. Once the button is attached, simply slide it through the largest loop to secure the flap closed.