To make a hardware strap for the coin purse, cut a strip out of the outer fabric or the lining fabric. The strip should be cut to 1 3/4" wide x 7" long. Using a quilting ruler and a rotary cuter is the easiest way to cut out these pieces.

Take the fabric strip, and fold the two long sides over 3/8" with wrong sides together. Press the folded edge with a pressing cloth.

Then fold the strip in half by matching up the two long, folded edges. Press the fold, and then either pin or use temporary spray adhesive to hold the fold in place for sewing.

As the stitching will been seen from both sides, wind a bobbin with the same thread you are using in the top needle.

Sew an 1/8" seam along both long sides. You do not need to sew along the two short ends. It should both be 1/2" wide when completed.

Slide a 1/2" swivel clasp, key ring, or other hardware of your choice on to the strap. Center it, and fold the strap so that the flat side of the hardware is on the inside of the fold.

Pin the fold or use temporary adhesive to hold it while sewing. Using a matching bobbin, sew a small seam as close to the hardware and folded end as possible. Make sure your needle does not hit the hardware as it will break the needle.

This completes the hardware strap. Set them it aside for now. The strap will be added during the second file of the embroidery design.

When you download the In-the-hoop coin purse design, you will find multiple files. Some are the embroidery files, and the others are dieline files marked with the letters "DL". Dielines are used to cut the fabric to the correct shape and size. Open and print each dieline file using an embroidery software. If you do not have an embroidery software, Wilcom TrueSizer is a free program to use.

Spray the backside of the front paper dieline (file "b") with temporary adhesive. Smooth it onto the right side of the outer fabric.

Cut out the first piece, and remove the paper dieline.

Repeat to cut the lining, front dieline shape (labeled with a "b" and "front") out of the lining fabric.

Then take the two remaining front dieline shapes (labeled with an "a", "back", and either "top" or "bottom"), and cut the two shapes out of both the lining and the outer fabrics.

Then take one of the "a", back shapes, and fold one long side over by 1/2". Press it along the folded edge.

Repeat to press one long edge over by 1/2" on each of the four back, top and bottom, dieline pieces.

There are different kinds of water-soluble stabilizer. For best results, use a soft and fibrous water soluble stabilizer, like Vilene. Using a stabilizer like this will make the zipper purse less bulky and easier to turn. The clear and plastic water soluble stabilizer will not work well. Use a size 11 or 75/11 sharp sewing needle. A sharp sewing needle has a smaller, finer point than an embroidery needle. That means it will make smaller holes in the stabilizer.

Hoop a piece of water-soluble stabilizer tightly, making sure there are no wrinkles and the stabilizer is drum-tight in the hoop.

Load the back embroidery file (file "a") onto the machine, and begin to embroider the design. The first thing to sew will be the "zipper dieline". This marks the place where the zipper will be placed on the stabilizer.

The zipper dieline sews a box with a centerline through the middle. To place the zipper correctly, close the zipper, and match up the center of the zipper (the teeth that zip and unzip) with the sewn centerline. Make sure the wrong side of the zipper is against the stabilizer, and tape it in place. The zipper should hang over the hoop on both sides, and will be trimmed away later.

Once the zipper is taped down, place the hoop back on the machine and embroider the "zipper tackdown" step. This will stitch the zipper to the stabilizer, and hold it in place for the remainder of the design. Don't worry if it sews over the tape. This can be easily torn away from around the stitches. Once the zipper is sewn in place, remove the tape before continuing to embroider.

After removing the tape, embroider the "top back piece dieline" step. This will sew an outline where the top front fabric piece will go.

Spray the back side of the folded, top front "a" outer fabric piece with temporary adhesive. With the folded edge against zipper, smooth the fabric piece inside the sewn dieline shape.

Then continue to embroider the "top back piece tackdown" step.

The "bottom back piece dieline" will embroider next, showing where to place the next fabric piece.

After the "bottom back piece dieline" has sewn out, place the fabric piece with the folded edge along the zipper, and embroider the tackdown. Again, make sure the folded edge is against the zipper. Then embroider the "bottom back piece tackdown" to sew the fabric piece in place.

Before sewing the "top lining tackdown," stop the machine and remove the hoop without unhooping the design. Lay it on the table with the backside of the hoop facing up. Take the top back "a" lining piece and spray the wrong side with temporary adhesive. Smooth it in place directly behind the top back "a" outer piece on the back of the hoop. Make sure the folded edge is against the zipper.

As the stitching will now be seen from both sides of the design, wind a bobbin with thread matching the color of the lining fabric. The top thread should still match the outer fabric color.

Place the hoop back onto the machine and embroider the "top lining tackdown" step. This will sew over the existing sewn tackdown on the front side of the design while also tacking down the added lining fabric.

Then repeat to spray and place the bottom, back "a" lining fabric on the back side of the hoop. Again make sure the folded edge of the fabric is against the zipper.

Still using the matching bobbin, place the hoop back on the machine and embroider the "bottom lining tackdown". This will sew over the existing sewn tackdown on the front side of the design while also tacking down the added lining fabric.

Once the embroidery is finished sewing, trim or tear away the excess stabilizer from around the back piece. Do not cut the zipper.

Once the back (file "a") is completed, hoop another piece of tear-away stabilizer and load the front (file "b") onto the machine. The first thing to sew will be the "front piece dieline". This marks the area on the stabilizer where the fabric piece will be placed.

Remove the hoop from the machine but do not unhoop the stabilizer. Spray the backside of the "b" front fabric piece with temporary adhesive, and smooth it in place right inside the sewn dieline.

Reattach the hoop on the machine and continue embroidering the design. The "front piece tackdown" stitch will sew next. This binds the fabric piece to the stabilizer for the remainder of the design.

Then follow the color change sheet, and embroider all the inner details of the design. Stop before sewing the "front finishing seam".

Before sewing the "front finishing seam" step, stop the machine and remove the hoop without unhooping the design.

It is now time to add the previously made hardware strap. Position it as desired so the raw edge is hanging over the outside of the fabric pieces. It is very important to make sure the hardware is far enough away from the outer edge of the fabric that it will not get sewn over. If the hardware does get sewn over by the stitching, it will break your needle, so be sure to place it correctly. Tape it in place.

Take the sewn back piece (file "a"), and open the zipper half way, so it its sitting in the center of the fabric square. It is very important to move the slider (also called the pull tab) of the zipper to the center of the fabric pieces. This will allow the zipper slider to be on the finished purse. If you do not move it, the zipper will be unusable, so do not forget!

Lay the sewn back piece (file "a") on top of the hooped front piece (file "b") with right sides together. Match up the outer edges, and tape the back piece in place around all four sides of the design.

Place the hoop back onto the machine, and embroider the "front finishing seam" step. This will bind all the layers together, and create the final shape of the purse.

Then remove the hoop from the machine without unhooping the design. Lay the lining "b" front piece on top of the other lining pieces with right sides together. Match up the edges and tape it in place.

Place the hoop back onto the machine, and embroider the final "lining finishing seam" step. This will sew the final shape of the purse a second time, binding the last lining piece to the rest of the design.

The "lining finishing seam" will also leave an opening in the bottom edge of the lining for turning the purse right side out. So make sure to not just sew either finishing seam step twice as the two finishing seams being different is very important.

Once the design has finished embroidering, cut or tear away the excess stabilizer from around the design

Then trim away the extra seam allowance and the extra zipper length. Trimming the fabric away from the corners and curves will help the purse keep its shape without wrinkling once turned right side out.

Turn the zipper purse right side out through the opening in the lining, so the right side of the lining fabric is facing out.

Then use fabric glue or a hand sewing needle and thread to close the opening in the bottom edge of the lining.

Cut open the stabilizer hiding the zipper using a scissor or seam ripper. Make sure not to cut the actual zipper or fabric.

Turn the purse right side out. If desired, you can remove the water soluble stabilizer inside of the purse to make it less bulky. To do this, follow the manufacturer's instructions that come with the stabilizer. For Vilene, we soaked the purses overnight (12+ hours), and then scrubbed the purse gently under running water to remove the stabilizer completely so that no stiffness remained.

Allow the purse to air dry and then press it with a pressing cloth and an iron to get rid of wrinkles and create crisp, folded edges.

Attach your coin purse onto another bag or set of keys to hold a pouch for coins, chapstick or other small items.