To begin, prepare the fabric for the embroidered blocks. On the solid colored fabric, using an air-erase pen (or other marking tool), draw a 7 inch by 7 inch square - leave a couple of inches of excess fabric around the shape. Then, measure and mark the center of each side of the square by measuring and dividing by two. Draw lines to connect the marks. Where the lines meet is the exact center of the shape.

Spray a piece of medium- weight or lightweight cutaway stabilizer (we used Floriani No-Show Mesh) with temporary adhesive and smooth the fabric on top. Then, hoop the fabric and stabilizer together by aligning the marks on the hoop with the lines on the fabric.  Attach the hoop to the machine and load the first design. Move the hoop so that the needle is aligned with the center point on the fabric. Embroider the design.

Repeat the fabric marking, hooping, and embroidering process for each embroidered block (we are embroidering three blocks). When the designs are finished, measure and mark 2 inches in on all sides of the shape starting at the corners.

Draw a line to connect the marks at each corner forming an octagon (eight sided shape). Using a straight edge and rotary cutter, cut out the shape.

Repeat the marking and cutting process for all three of the embroidered pieces.

Measure and cut out three octagon shapes from the print fabric just as you did for the embroidered pieces - draw 7 inch by 7 inch squares on the fabric, measure and mark 2 inches in on all sides of the shapes starting at the corners, draw lines connecting the marks at each corner, and cut out the shapes.

To prepare the fabric for the small center squares and the outer triangles, cut a total of six 4 inch by 4 inch squares. We cut two print fabric pieces for the center squares and four solid colored fabric pieces for the outer triangles. Using a straight edge, cut all of the squares in half, diagonally.

Align each of the halved pieces with the grid on the cutting pad, and cut them along the diagonal center line creating four total pieces per square (24 triangle pieces total).

Now, to create the first block (the upper left block), align the long sides of the triangle pieces with the corner edges of one of the print octagon pieces, right sides together, with the corners of the triangle pieces extending out past the edge of the octagon piece about 1/4 inch. Position the colors of the triangle pieces carefully - how you want them. We are placing the solid-colored pieces at the top edges and the bottom left edge (to create the outer border) and we are placing a print piece at the bottom right (to create one of the inner squares).

Pin in place and sew a 1/4 inch seam along the pinned edges only - we are using a walking foot which helps to prevent the layers of fabric from shifting while sewing.

Flip the triangle pieces out and lay the block flat with the wrong side facing up. Use an iron to press the back seams flat against the back of the octagon shape.

Add the remaining triangle pieces to the octagon pieces just as you did with the first block paying close attention to the positioning of the triangle pieces so they create the inner squares and the outer triangle border.

Now that all of the blocks are assembled, it is time to put them together to create the front panel. Align the top left block with the bottom left block, right sides together, align the seams, and pin in place along the top edge. Sew a 1/4 inch seam along the pinned edge only.

Press the back seam open.

Repeat this process with the top and bottom center blocks, then with the top and bottom right blocks.

Lay the center blocks flat and align the left blocks on top with the right sides together. Align the seams and pin in place along the left side edge. Sew a 1/4 inch seam along the pinned edge only. Press the seams.

Align the right blocks on top of the center blocks, right sides together, align the seams and pin in place along the right side edge. Sew a 1/4 inch seam along the pinned edge and press the seams.

To prepare the fabric for the left and right outside borders, cut two pieces of fabric 1 1/2 inches wide by 12 3/4 inches high. Align the outside pieces with the side edges of the assembled front panel, right sides together, pin in place, and sew a 1/4 inch seam along the pinned edges. Then, press the seams.

To prepare the fabric for the top and bottom outside borders, cut two pieces of fabric 20 inches wide by 1 1/2 inches high. Align the top and bottom outside pieces with the top and bottom edges of the assembled front panel, right sides together, pin, and sew a 1/4 inch seam along the pinned edges. Press the seams.

To prepare the fabric for the back of the placemat, lay the assembled front panel on top of the fabric, pin, and cut out the shape. Also, cut a piece of the batting just as you did for the back fabric. 

Lay the back fabric flat with the right side facing up. Align the front panel on top, right sides together. Align the batting piece on top of the front panel and pin all the layers in place. Sew a 1/4 inch seam along the top, bottom, and one side edge - leave the other side edge open for turning.

Turn the placemat right side out between the front and back panels (the batting will end up inside the placemat), and press the seams. Also, turn the fabric of the opening in 1/4 inch and press.

Hand-sew the opening closed by hand stitching with needle and thread. 

Then, with nylon monofilament thread in the needle and thread that matches the back fabric in the bobbin, quilt through all the layers by stitching along the existing seams of the front panel.

Your tasty placemat is complete.